When I was growing up, my mother never cooked cauliflower. What we knew of it, we didn’t like. When I’d encountered it at other people’s homes, it was boiled long enough to bring out the sulfur smell and was drenched with a sauce of Velveeta cheese. It took many years for me to realize cauliflower didn’t have to be like that.
It was when I started doing some Indian cooking, and discovered the many interesting ways that cuisine uses cauliflower, that I became curious about the vegetable. I now know that, when not overcooked, it has a wonderful ability to bond with all kinds of other flavors. I still don’t serve it often, because an average-sized whole cauliflower is a lot for a two-person household to get through. But I do choose it occasionally. Here are the simple ways I dealt with the head that I brought home this week.
Day 1: Warm cauliflower salad
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I took about a third of the florets off the head, steamed them for seven minutes, until they were just tender. I also chopped ½ cup of celery, ¼ cup of onion, and ⅛ cup of Tuscan pickled peppers.
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While the florets were still warm, I tossed them gently in a bowl with the chopped vegetables, extra-virgin olive oil, my own wine vinegar, salt, and pepper. I had to be careful with the vinegar because my Tuscan peppers were very strongly pickled.
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The mixture made a pleasant, light vegetable starter for a weekday dinner. In spring or summer, I also add a few thinly sliced radishes and some of their tiny leaves to this salad; but I never buy radishes in November.
Day 2: Cavolfiore fritto
In principle, I follow Marcella Hazan’s recipe for breaded and fried cauliflower, though it’s such an easy process that it hardly needs a recipe. This evening I took off half the remaining florets from my head of cauliflower, steamed them for only five minutes (since they’d be getting more cooking later), and let them cool. I dipped them first in an egg beaten with salt, then in dry breadcrumbs.
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Beloved Spouse then stepped up and fried them for me, in half an inch of very hot olive oil. It took only about a minute on each side for them to turn richly golden.
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While the steaming and breading can be done an hour or more in advance, once the florets are fried, they need to be eaten right away to be at their best.
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This time they were, as always, crisp, crunchy, and delicious – an excellent accompaniment to broiled lamb chops. Actually, they would work well with almost any un-sauced meat or fowl.
Day 3: Cauliflower soup
I dedicated the rest of my cauliflower to a favorite soup. The original recipe is from Alfred Portale’s Twelve Seasons Cookbook. There it’s called a vichyssoise, to be served cold. I make just the basic soup, leaving out several of the recipe’s garnishes, and I like to serve it hot.
To make a small enough soup for the amount of cauliflower florets I had left this week, I chopped ¼ cup of onions and thinly sliced ⅓ cup of leeks.
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I sauteed those two vegetables in a tablespoon of olive oil, then added the florets and a cup of chicken broth from a bouillon cube.
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This cooked, covered, for 20 minutes, until the florets were tender. Then I pureed everything in a blender. I tasted and added salt and pepper, and the soup was ready to reheat at dinner time.
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This simple soup is just amazingly good. In a blind tasting, you probably wouldn’t guess it was cauliflower; you’d distinguish only a generic vegetal sweetness. And it’s such a rich puree you’d think it must be at least half butter and cream. I’m sure the dressed-up version – with sauteed cauliflower slices, a dose of olive oil, and a sprinkling of chopped chives – would be excellent too, but I’ve never felt the need to try it.
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There’s nothing complex in these cauliflower dishes, especially compared to those in typical Indian recipes, but each is very tasty, and together they show the versatility of the vegetable I once disliked. We live and learn, eh?
They all sound good. Now with some melted Velveeta to enhance the taste
Of course — the very thing.
That soup is in my regular rotation. I love both the flavor and the lovely creamy texture it has despite the absence of cream. Also, you can find both miniature and small (perfect for 2) cauliflower at the greenmarket, especially early in the season.
It was you who gave me the recipe, 16 years ago. (I know because it was via an email and the date is on the printout.) I’m still grateful to you for it!
I, who spent six yeas at an English boarding school when the food in England itself wasn’t exactly ‘exciting’, can manage to eat about everything, so long as it is vaguely palatable. Cauliflower is one of those ‘things’ for me … I can eat, but I just can’t love it. Cauliflower cheese, I can do, and fried cauliflower too… for the rest ..ugh. But thank you Diane for going to some length to making it more attractive!
I’m sympathetic, believe me! I’d advise you to try Indian recipes — they may convert you as they did me. Here’s a nice one:
https://dianescookbooks.wordpress.com/2010/02/08/week-6-curried-cauliflower-with-scallions-and-golden-raisins/
The best cauliflower dish I ever had was 20 years ago in a small French auberge as a starter. It was simply a steamed cauliflower head with a marvellous vinaigrette – I have not equalled it..
Ah well, the time, the place, the ambiance, and the prima materia — it all can combine to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear, let alone a humble vegetable.